| Is your Hay okay? By Teresa Wooden |
Hay is an important part of the rabbit's diet. It provides essential fiber to keep
the digestive tract healthy and mobile, and provides some nutrition as well.
For wool breeds, like Jersey Woolies and Angoras, hay is a must and should
be fed weekly (even daily) in small amounts in addition to the pelleted feed
ration.
However, if the hay carries mold, dust, harmful bacteria or infectious protozoal
elements, it could spell disaster for your herd. Hay that is too high in protein
or mineral content can cause diarrhea and also "red urine", which is harmless
but can be alarming if you aren't expecting it.
Here are some things to consider when buying hay to help you be sure that
you are getting the best product for your rabbits' welfare.
What Type of Hay:
The best hay to feed rabbits is grass hay. That will be timothy, orchard grass,
brome, and oat hay, usually. These hays are best for providing high fiber
content and low levels of protein and fat. Alfalfa is a legume hay and is very
high in nutrients, protein, and minerals, and can be too much for the rabbit's
digestive system to handle when it is already getting sufficient nutrients from a
diet based on pelleted feed. Some of the minerals (calcium, I believe) in
alfalfa hay can turn the rabbit's urine red.
You can buy hay from pet stores, from hay companies mail order, and from
area farmers. Hay from the farmer down the road may cost you about $3.75
for 50 pounds. Hay from the pet store will cost you $4--5 for a tiny bag, maybe
a pound. You do the math. Hay from the mail-order hay companies you can
find on-line is very high in quality and very attractive, and costs almost $30 per
50 pounds, to which you must add shipping. At that price it really hurts to see
your rabbit pee on it and drop most of it through the cage floor, but some
people feel safer going that route quality-wise. Here is a link to Oxbow Hay
Company, which seems to have the best quality product I've seen.
Here we feed our own hay that comes from our field. It is mostly timothy,
some orchard grass, and a little alfalfa mixed in. It provides a very good
source of fiber and nutrients, and the rabbits love it.
Determining Hay Quality:
What do you look for when buying hay in the store or from a farmer? If you're
buying directly from a farmer, one thing to ask is: what cutting was this hay?
Farmers usually get about three cuttings, or harvests, off a field in one season.
The "first cutting" of the year tends to be higher in weed content. The
"second cutting" is usually the choicest hay, lower in weeds and high in
nutrient value. The "third cutting" can sometimes be overly mature, drier, and
lower in nutrient value.
Hay maturity can be determined by looking to see how developed the seed
heads or blossoms are. The more open and mature the seed head, the lower
in nutrient value. Overly mature hay will be "stemmy", with fewer leaves in
proportion to the number of stems. Stems don't carry as much food value.
Some of the weeds that may be hiding in the hay can be toxic to rabbits.
Contact your local extension agency if you'd like to know more about possible
toxic weeds in your area of the country. Basically anything that will be toxic to
horses will be toxic to rabbits... and will take less volume to do the damage.
Always look over the hay as you give it out to your bunnies, and remove any
weed you can't identify.
Good hay smells yummy... :) It should smell sweet, even minty sometimes...
but never smell moldy, sour, or rotten. The bale should be dry, never damp
inside.
Good hay is green. While the outside of the bale may turn brown or fade, the
inside should open up to reveal nice, bright to pale green hay. Hay that is
brown all the way through is too old, or too moldy, or has been exposed to the
elements.
Problems with Hay:
Mold:
Moldy hay tends to stick together instead of falling apart into "flakes" or
"beats". You may see a white powdery substance growing on the stems. It
will smell moldy, not sweet. You may find blackened areas on one end or side
that was exposed to moisture in storage and grew mold. Moldy hay can make
your rabbits very sick, so be observant.
Toxic Weeds:
As I said before, examine the hay as you feed it. Try to get second cutting
hay. There are some toxic weeds that could kill your rabbits in a very short
amount of time, so be vigilant about giving them clean hay.
Chemical Sprays:
Ask what sprays the farmer has used and how recently. Chances are that any
pesticides or other sprays have long since passed through the plant's system,
but it doesn't hurt to be sure. Hay that was cut by a roadside or next to
another crop may have been covered with chemical drift when herbicide or
pesticide was sprayed next to it.
Rodents and other Varmints:
Hay that is stored where rodents, and particularly raccoons, have access to it
in any great numbers carries the risk of bringing parasites and protozoal
infections to your herd. The protozoal infection E.Cuniculi, which is believed
to cause nervous system damage (often symptomized by "wry neck" or head
tilt) is thought possibly connected to the droppings of raccoons on stored hay
(this is information being examined in equine (horse) medicine).
Storing Hay Properly:
Okay, so now you have a 50-pound bale of hay... what do you do with it?
Stored properly, it will last you a long time without losing much in quality.
Be sure to keep the hay dry. Don't let moisture condense on it. Don't leave it
out exposed to the elements. Rain or moisture will cause mold. Sunlight can
fade it and leach the nutrients from it. You could store the hay in a garbage
can. If you put it in a large plastic garbage sack, be sure to keep it covered
loosely so that it can breathe. Basically keep it in a dry, dark, cool place and
you won't have any problems.
the digestive tract healthy and mobile, and provides some nutrition as well.
For wool breeds, like Jersey Woolies and Angoras, hay is a must and should
be fed weekly (even daily) in small amounts in addition to the pelleted feed
ration.
However, if the hay carries mold, dust, harmful bacteria or infectious protozoal
elements, it could spell disaster for your herd. Hay that is too high in protein
or mineral content can cause diarrhea and also "red urine", which is harmless
but can be alarming if you aren't expecting it.
Here are some things to consider when buying hay to help you be sure that
you are getting the best product for your rabbits' welfare.
What Type of Hay:
The best hay to feed rabbits is grass hay. That will be timothy, orchard grass,
brome, and oat hay, usually. These hays are best for providing high fiber
content and low levels of protein and fat. Alfalfa is a legume hay and is very
high in nutrients, protein, and minerals, and can be too much for the rabbit's
digestive system to handle when it is already getting sufficient nutrients from a
diet based on pelleted feed. Some of the minerals (calcium, I believe) in
alfalfa hay can turn the rabbit's urine red.
You can buy hay from pet stores, from hay companies mail order, and from
area farmers. Hay from the farmer down the road may cost you about $3.75
for 50 pounds. Hay from the pet store will cost you $4--5 for a tiny bag, maybe
a pound. You do the math. Hay from the mail-order hay companies you can
find on-line is very high in quality and very attractive, and costs almost $30 per
50 pounds, to which you must add shipping. At that price it really hurts to see
your rabbit pee on it and drop most of it through the cage floor, but some
people feel safer going that route quality-wise. Here is a link to Oxbow Hay
Company, which seems to have the best quality product I've seen.
Here we feed our own hay that comes from our field. It is mostly timothy,
some orchard grass, and a little alfalfa mixed in. It provides a very good
source of fiber and nutrients, and the rabbits love it.
Determining Hay Quality:
What do you look for when buying hay in the store or from a farmer? If you're
buying directly from a farmer, one thing to ask is: what cutting was this hay?
Farmers usually get about three cuttings, or harvests, off a field in one season.
The "first cutting" of the year tends to be higher in weed content. The
"second cutting" is usually the choicest hay, lower in weeds and high in
nutrient value. The "third cutting" can sometimes be overly mature, drier, and
lower in nutrient value.
Hay maturity can be determined by looking to see how developed the seed
heads or blossoms are. The more open and mature the seed head, the lower
in nutrient value. Overly mature hay will be "stemmy", with fewer leaves in
proportion to the number of stems. Stems don't carry as much food value.
Some of the weeds that may be hiding in the hay can be toxic to rabbits.
Contact your local extension agency if you'd like to know more about possible
toxic weeds in your area of the country. Basically anything that will be toxic to
horses will be toxic to rabbits... and will take less volume to do the damage.
Always look over the hay as you give it out to your bunnies, and remove any
weed you can't identify.
Good hay smells yummy... :) It should smell sweet, even minty sometimes...
but never smell moldy, sour, or rotten. The bale should be dry, never damp
inside.
Good hay is green. While the outside of the bale may turn brown or fade, the
inside should open up to reveal nice, bright to pale green hay. Hay that is
brown all the way through is too old, or too moldy, or has been exposed to the
elements.
Problems with Hay:
Mold:
Moldy hay tends to stick together instead of falling apart into "flakes" or
"beats". You may see a white powdery substance growing on the stems. It
will smell moldy, not sweet. You may find blackened areas on one end or side
that was exposed to moisture in storage and grew mold. Moldy hay can make
your rabbits very sick, so be observant.
Toxic Weeds:
As I said before, examine the hay as you feed it. Try to get second cutting
hay. There are some toxic weeds that could kill your rabbits in a very short
amount of time, so be vigilant about giving them clean hay.
Chemical Sprays:
Ask what sprays the farmer has used and how recently. Chances are that any
pesticides or other sprays have long since passed through the plant's system,
but it doesn't hurt to be sure. Hay that was cut by a roadside or next to
another crop may have been covered with chemical drift when herbicide or
pesticide was sprayed next to it.
Rodents and other Varmints:
Hay that is stored where rodents, and particularly raccoons, have access to it
in any great numbers carries the risk of bringing parasites and protozoal
infections to your herd. The protozoal infection E.Cuniculi, which is believed
to cause nervous system damage (often symptomized by "wry neck" or head
tilt) is thought possibly connected to the droppings of raccoons on stored hay
(this is information being examined in equine (horse) medicine).
Storing Hay Properly:
Okay, so now you have a 50-pound bale of hay... what do you do with it?
Stored properly, it will last you a long time without losing much in quality.
Be sure to keep the hay dry. Don't let moisture condense on it. Don't leave it
out exposed to the elements. Rain or moisture will cause mold. Sunlight can
fade it and leach the nutrients from it. You could store the hay in a garbage
can. If you put it in a large plastic garbage sack, be sure to keep it covered
loosely so that it can breathe. Basically keep it in a dry, dark, cool place and
you won't have any problems.
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