| Getting and Keeping Show Coats on Your Woolies By Teresa Wooden |
There are a number of factors which help to determine the type and condition of a rabbit's
coat, including genetics, nutrition, grooming and handling techniques, and climate. Here
are a few things to consider when trying to get your Woolies into top condition
(called "prime") for your next big show.
Genetics:
"If you don't got the genes, you don't got the means." No amount of feeding, grooming,
primping or praying will bring a coat into condition if it is not in the rabbit's genetics to
have what is considered a prime coat. If the parents lack in texture, density, length, or
color, then the offspring probably will also. With this in mind, use wisdom when planning
your breedings. Don't breed a soft coat to a soft coat, thin density to thin density, and so
on. Genetics also affect the ability of the rabbit to use the nutrition it receives to achieve
and maintain a prime coat. Some lines just never seem to come into condition, or can't
seem to hold a coat when they get one. You may want to move these animals out of your
herd if you are concentrating on improving the wool in your lines.
Nutrition:
This is also a biggie. You get back what you put in, so to speak. Feeding a good quality
pelleted feed and providing plenty of fresh water every day is a must. Many breeders use
some form of additional feed supplement (in very small amounts, like a Tablespoon per
rabbit) to help bring their rabbits into prime... Such things as oats, barley, sunflower seeds,
calf manna, and prepared supplements such as Doc's Rabbit Enhancer are common. Use
caution, though... you can have too much of a good thing. Most supplements are high in
protein and fat and can cause your rabbit to go into a molt or even develop digestive
problems that could be fatal. In particular, NEVER feed supplements to young rabbits
under the age of 12 weeks, just as a precaution, because their digestive systems are more
fragile than an adult's.
An important tip is to drop the protein level of the diet as the rabbit reaches prime, in order
to maintain the condition of the coat. If you continue to feed high-nutrient supplements
even when the rabbit reaches prime, it will go ahead and cycle on through a molt. Instead,
go back to the basic pellet and hay diet, and you'll have a better chance of the rabbit
holding it's coat for awhile.
Hay is also an important element of the Jersey Wooly diet. The extra fiber provided by hay
helps the rabbit to move ingested wool through the system, guarding against wool block
(which can cause the digestive system to virtually shut down). In our opinion, there is no
such thing as feeding too much hay, and our rabbits receive it daily. A small handful is
sufficient. Make sure to feed grass hay (timothy, orchard grass, brome, oat hay) rather
than alfalfa hay, which is too high in protein and mineral content for a diet based on
pelleted feed.
Many breeders feed their rabbits very small amounts of fresh greens (dandelion leaves are
a favorite, along with blackberry/raspberry leaves, green kale, plantain leaves, parsley)
and swear that it helps to keep their herd in top condition. Just remember to feed such
foods sparsely, perhaps no more than a couple times a week, as too much could cause
diarrhea and subsequent problems.
Regular Worming:
We keep our herd on a regular worming schedule, because most rabbits do carry
pinworms. If your rabbit is carrying a moderate to heavy infestation of parasites, it won't
be able to utilize the nutrients in the feed and the coat and flesh will fail. Rotate your
wormers so the parasites don't become resistant. We use Piperazine, thiabendazole, and
Ivomec at different times. We worm once each season.
Climate and Environment:
I have heard it said that the Northern breeders have an unfair advantage, particularly
when ARBA Nationals roll around in November, because our rabbits get that nice cold
weather that grows a thick coat. Well, "Nyah, nyah, nyah!" Haha! You're right. :) When
the weather changes between seasons, though, we really suffer so there is some justice in
the world. Rabbits respond to sudden changes in temperature by dropping their coat
(going into a "molt"). Even a few hours in an overly warm environment is said to cause a
molt if the rabbit is used to colder temps, so if you can keep them in a controlled
environment you'll be in much better shape. A couple years ago, we had a fall season in
which the temperatures fluctuated wildly from 60 degrees to below freezing for a few
weeks... needless to say, every Wisconsin rabbit was in a full molt at nationals. We should
have had a special "ugly bunny" class just for fun. :)
Sun fading is also a consideration if your rabbits are housed outside. Exposure to the sun
will fade the color on a rabbit's coat, and this can be a major fault at showtime. Try to
provide some protection from the direct rays of the sun, and from reflected light off metal
pans or light surfaces.
Stress can also cause a coat to molt. For this reason, many serious exhibitors decide
against going to all the local shows for a period of time if they have a major show (like
nationals) coming up in which they want to compete. Going to shows every weekend is
very hard on your rabbits, and makes it much more difficult to keep them in top condition.
Separate your juniors into their own cages as soon as you can to avoid coat-chewing
brought on by boredom, crowding, or hormones. A chewed coat ruins the rabbit for show
until an entirely new one grows in.
Handling Woolies:
The Wooly coat is delicate and subject to breakage if handled carelessly. For this reason,
we never "scruff" our Woolies. Scruffing is the action of grabbing a rabbit by the skin
over it's shoulders to pick it up and move it or turn it over. Unfortunately we see some
Wooly breeders and even some judges that don't realize the damage this can do to a wool
coat. Instead, learn to gently but firmly grasp the rabbit from behind the head, pressing
your thumb and fingers on either side of the jaws, to control the animal. In addition, we
seldom grab the ears in a scissor-lock grip as is often done, due to the potential damage
that could occur to cartilage and/or nerves. The only time we use this approach is when
control is difficult and absolutely essential, as with a vicious rabbit or when some type of
medication or work must be completed.
Grooming:
Stains:
Urine stains ("hutch stain") on a coat are a fault and can be difficult to get rid of. The
best approach is to keep the cage clean and keep the urine guards wiped down so the
rabbit doesn't sit up against them and make itself dirty. Sometimes it just can't be avoided
though, especially with bucks that like to mark a lot.
I wrote an article comparing different methods for getting stains out of coats, and posted
results of what seemed to work best. This article is located elsewhere on this site.
Using a Blower:
Though not absolutely necessary, a blower can really help to open up the coat and rid it of
webbing, matting, and debris. Blowers can be expensive. Ours is a combination
blower/vacuum that we also use on the horses' coats, and cost about $200. Blowers that
only "blow" can be purchased for around $100, last time I checked. I've also heard of
people using hair dryers (on cool setting only) and shop vacs, though I don't believe they'd
do the same job.
Set the rabbit on a secure surface (carpet square, your lap, on the ground) and always keep
one hand over the rabbit's head and ears. This is both to keep it from leaping away and
getting injured, and to protect the ears from forced air.
Start at the base of the tail and work the blower back and forth through the coat slowly,
blowing out debris and looking for areas where the fur is matted or felted near the skin.
The blower can help to open these areas up without the damage that would be done by
pulling them with a comb or brush.
Be prepared to look like a snowman... the dander that is blown out of a coat will cover
everything in the near area with a fine dusting of white powder, as well as drifting tufts of
loose wool. People who have asthma should be aware of the dander problem and stay
away or wear a mask.
Using a Brush or Comb:
Get yourself a roller comb and a small slicker brush. Use the roller comb first to loosen
and help dislodge matted clumps of wool, and use the slicker brush on the tips of the guard
hairs. Start at the base of the tail, hold open a section of the coat and brush out a small
layer at a time, working your way up over the back and being careful not to overgroom on
the back area (the most fragile section of the coat). Then do the same up both sides, turn
the rabbit over and groom the chest and belly area.
Pull any mats apart with your fingers before attacking them with your comb or brush. If
they are very severe, just clip them out.
Do not overgroom! Don't pull out all the rabbit's undercoat with your brush and comb, or
you will have a very thin coat that will be faulted for lack of density. This is the most
common mistake made by beginning Wooly exhibitors.
Show Prepping:
If you've got the coat in prime condition, have groomed it well, and kept it clean, then all
you need to do is a final prep before setting your rabbit before the judge.
Just before your class is called, give the coat a once-over with the slicker brush, starting at
the tail and "fluffing" the coat all around the body. Now your rabbit looks like a giant
puffball. If possible, avoid mashing the fluffed coat on the way to the show table.
On senior coats (this doesn't work on soft junior coats), you can wet your hands lightly
with water and run them back and forth over the coat until the water evaporates before
flipping through with the slicker brush. This can limit static electricity in the coat and
makes it feel fuller.
I've also read of people using dryer sheets rubbed over the coat to take out static electricity
that tends to mess up the appearance of the wool. We've never tried that method.
Remember that no other products, other than water, are allowed to be used on the coat
according to ARBA rules.
coat, including genetics, nutrition, grooming and handling techniques, and climate. Here
are a few things to consider when trying to get your Woolies into top condition
(called "prime") for your next big show.
Genetics:
"If you don't got the genes, you don't got the means." No amount of feeding, grooming,
primping or praying will bring a coat into condition if it is not in the rabbit's genetics to
have what is considered a prime coat. If the parents lack in texture, density, length, or
color, then the offspring probably will also. With this in mind, use wisdom when planning
your breedings. Don't breed a soft coat to a soft coat, thin density to thin density, and so
on. Genetics also affect the ability of the rabbit to use the nutrition it receives to achieve
and maintain a prime coat. Some lines just never seem to come into condition, or can't
seem to hold a coat when they get one. You may want to move these animals out of your
herd if you are concentrating on improving the wool in your lines.
Nutrition:
This is also a biggie. You get back what you put in, so to speak. Feeding a good quality
pelleted feed and providing plenty of fresh water every day is a must. Many breeders use
some form of additional feed supplement (in very small amounts, like a Tablespoon per
rabbit) to help bring their rabbits into prime... Such things as oats, barley, sunflower seeds,
calf manna, and prepared supplements such as Doc's Rabbit Enhancer are common. Use
caution, though... you can have too much of a good thing. Most supplements are high in
protein and fat and can cause your rabbit to go into a molt or even develop digestive
problems that could be fatal. In particular, NEVER feed supplements to young rabbits
under the age of 12 weeks, just as a precaution, because their digestive systems are more
fragile than an adult's.
An important tip is to drop the protein level of the diet as the rabbit reaches prime, in order
to maintain the condition of the coat. If you continue to feed high-nutrient supplements
even when the rabbit reaches prime, it will go ahead and cycle on through a molt. Instead,
go back to the basic pellet and hay diet, and you'll have a better chance of the rabbit
holding it's coat for awhile.
Hay is also an important element of the Jersey Wooly diet. The extra fiber provided by hay
helps the rabbit to move ingested wool through the system, guarding against wool block
(which can cause the digestive system to virtually shut down). In our opinion, there is no
such thing as feeding too much hay, and our rabbits receive it daily. A small handful is
sufficient. Make sure to feed grass hay (timothy, orchard grass, brome, oat hay) rather
than alfalfa hay, which is too high in protein and mineral content for a diet based on
pelleted feed.
Many breeders feed their rabbits very small amounts of fresh greens (dandelion leaves are
a favorite, along with blackberry/raspberry leaves, green kale, plantain leaves, parsley)
and swear that it helps to keep their herd in top condition. Just remember to feed such
foods sparsely, perhaps no more than a couple times a week, as too much could cause
diarrhea and subsequent problems.
Regular Worming:
We keep our herd on a regular worming schedule, because most rabbits do carry
pinworms. If your rabbit is carrying a moderate to heavy infestation of parasites, it won't
be able to utilize the nutrients in the feed and the coat and flesh will fail. Rotate your
wormers so the parasites don't become resistant. We use Piperazine, thiabendazole, and
Ivomec at different times. We worm once each season.
Climate and Environment:
I have heard it said that the Northern breeders have an unfair advantage, particularly
when ARBA Nationals roll around in November, because our rabbits get that nice cold
weather that grows a thick coat. Well, "Nyah, nyah, nyah!" Haha! You're right. :) When
the weather changes between seasons, though, we really suffer so there is some justice in
the world. Rabbits respond to sudden changes in temperature by dropping their coat
(going into a "molt"). Even a few hours in an overly warm environment is said to cause a
molt if the rabbit is used to colder temps, so if you can keep them in a controlled
environment you'll be in much better shape. A couple years ago, we had a fall season in
which the temperatures fluctuated wildly from 60 degrees to below freezing for a few
weeks... needless to say, every Wisconsin rabbit was in a full molt at nationals. We should
have had a special "ugly bunny" class just for fun. :)
Sun fading is also a consideration if your rabbits are housed outside. Exposure to the sun
will fade the color on a rabbit's coat, and this can be a major fault at showtime. Try to
provide some protection from the direct rays of the sun, and from reflected light off metal
pans or light surfaces.
Stress can also cause a coat to molt. For this reason, many serious exhibitors decide
against going to all the local shows for a period of time if they have a major show (like
nationals) coming up in which they want to compete. Going to shows every weekend is
very hard on your rabbits, and makes it much more difficult to keep them in top condition.
Separate your juniors into their own cages as soon as you can to avoid coat-chewing
brought on by boredom, crowding, or hormones. A chewed coat ruins the rabbit for show
until an entirely new one grows in.
Handling Woolies:
The Wooly coat is delicate and subject to breakage if handled carelessly. For this reason,
we never "scruff" our Woolies. Scruffing is the action of grabbing a rabbit by the skin
over it's shoulders to pick it up and move it or turn it over. Unfortunately we see some
Wooly breeders and even some judges that don't realize the damage this can do to a wool
coat. Instead, learn to gently but firmly grasp the rabbit from behind the head, pressing
your thumb and fingers on either side of the jaws, to control the animal. In addition, we
seldom grab the ears in a scissor-lock grip as is often done, due to the potential damage
that could occur to cartilage and/or nerves. The only time we use this approach is when
control is difficult and absolutely essential, as with a vicious rabbit or when some type of
medication or work must be completed.
Grooming:
Stains:
Urine stains ("hutch stain") on a coat are a fault and can be difficult to get rid of. The
best approach is to keep the cage clean and keep the urine guards wiped down so the
rabbit doesn't sit up against them and make itself dirty. Sometimes it just can't be avoided
though, especially with bucks that like to mark a lot.
I wrote an article comparing different methods for getting stains out of coats, and posted
results of what seemed to work best. This article is located elsewhere on this site.
Using a Blower:
Though not absolutely necessary, a blower can really help to open up the coat and rid it of
webbing, matting, and debris. Blowers can be expensive. Ours is a combination
blower/vacuum that we also use on the horses' coats, and cost about $200. Blowers that
only "blow" can be purchased for around $100, last time I checked. I've also heard of
people using hair dryers (on cool setting only) and shop vacs, though I don't believe they'd
do the same job.
Set the rabbit on a secure surface (carpet square, your lap, on the ground) and always keep
one hand over the rabbit's head and ears. This is both to keep it from leaping away and
getting injured, and to protect the ears from forced air.
Start at the base of the tail and work the blower back and forth through the coat slowly,
blowing out debris and looking for areas where the fur is matted or felted near the skin.
The blower can help to open these areas up without the damage that would be done by
pulling them with a comb or brush.
Be prepared to look like a snowman... the dander that is blown out of a coat will cover
everything in the near area with a fine dusting of white powder, as well as drifting tufts of
loose wool. People who have asthma should be aware of the dander problem and stay
away or wear a mask.
Using a Brush or Comb:
Get yourself a roller comb and a small slicker brush. Use the roller comb first to loosen
and help dislodge matted clumps of wool, and use the slicker brush on the tips of the guard
hairs. Start at the base of the tail, hold open a section of the coat and brush out a small
layer at a time, working your way up over the back and being careful not to overgroom on
the back area (the most fragile section of the coat). Then do the same up both sides, turn
the rabbit over and groom the chest and belly area.
Pull any mats apart with your fingers before attacking them with your comb or brush. If
they are very severe, just clip them out.
Do not overgroom! Don't pull out all the rabbit's undercoat with your brush and comb, or
you will have a very thin coat that will be faulted for lack of density. This is the most
common mistake made by beginning Wooly exhibitors.
Show Prepping:
If you've got the coat in prime condition, have groomed it well, and kept it clean, then all
you need to do is a final prep before setting your rabbit before the judge.
Just before your class is called, give the coat a once-over with the slicker brush, starting at
the tail and "fluffing" the coat all around the body. Now your rabbit looks like a giant
puffball. If possible, avoid mashing the fluffed coat on the way to the show table.
On senior coats (this doesn't work on soft junior coats), you can wet your hands lightly
with water and run them back and forth over the coat until the water evaporates before
flipping through with the slicker brush. This can limit static electricity in the coat and
makes it feel fuller.
I've also read of people using dryer sheets rubbed over the coat to take out static electricity
that tends to mess up the appearance of the wool. We've never tried that method.
Remember that no other products, other than water, are allowed to be used on the coat
according to ARBA rules.
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