| Alternatives to Oxytocin By Teresa Wooden |
What Is Oxytocin?
Oxytocin is a hormone that is
secreted by the pituitary, ovaries,
and testes. It is used as a
powerful drug to induce lactation,
uterine contraction that stimulates
labor, and establishment of
maternal behavior.
This is a drug that can ONLY be
obtained from a licensed
veterinarian, and should ONLY be
used by very experienced breeders
under the supervision of a veterinarian, ONLY in cases that clearly warrant it's
use, such as difficult birth, weak contractions, the doe is far overdue, or has a
retained placenta/has not passed afterbirth in a reasonable amount of time.
Used incorrectly, oxytocin can cause the doe to have contractions so strong
that the uterus could rupture, causing the doe to bleed out and die. The uterus
could also be expelled through the vaginal opening (prolapsed uterus). A
prolapsed uterus could possibly be replaced by a veterinarian, but infection,
hemorrhage and shock will be prime considerations and the doe should
probably never again be bred even if it is successful.
Most of us really should NOT be using oxytocin, although it seems to be more
and more common to see even novice breeders getting their hands on some
of the drug and "popping" their does to hurry up Mother Nature.
I've heard lots of reasons for using the drug, from not trusting the doe's nest
building abilities to wanting to deliver all the does in the barn at the same time
because the owner wants to go away for a weekend! One should plan one's
breeding schedule so that you will be available to watch and assist your
pregnant animals when they need you. Besides the inherent danger of the
drug, induced labor is stronger, faster, and HURTS!!! more than natural labor.
On top of that, we sometimes have found that does who received Oxy actually
had less maternal attachment to their litters.... Perhaps the natural birth
process is necessary for bonding to occur.
So, what other options do we have when our doe is at day 31 - 32 and shows
no intention of building a nest or starting labor anytime soon, it's getting late,
and we're getting a bit worried?
(Just one note first: Do not get the doe greatly upset or frightened or she may
reject or attack her kits when they finally are born. Here is where the practice
of daily handling and building trust with your animals truly pays off in keeping
them calm.)
First -- Check the Calendar!!!
Are you SURE you are correct on the breeding date? Don't undertake any
kind of intervention unless you can be absolutely positive that the doe is at full
gestation. Rabbits will deliver on day 28 to day 32 of their gestation. This is a
good argument for hand-breeding a doe (take the doe to the buck, witness
the breeding, and return the doe to her cage) rather than just leaving a doe in
a cage with a buck for a few days or a week.
Exercise.
Any reader who has given birth will remember having to get up and walk the
halls of the maternity ward during early labor. Why? It stimulates contractions.
Many the doe that we have brought in and followed around and around the
dining room table to get her moving both inside and out. Does it work? Yes,
it will sometimes bring on labor, but it's not instantaneous. Nature works on
her own time clock, and patience is the key. Encourage the doe to keep
moving along gently (not running madly), without getting her frightened or
upset. Remember that she is uncomfortable and needs to stop and lie down
and catch her breath occasionally. Give her about a half hour session, put her
up in her cage, and get her out again in an hour or so. You can give her a few
sessions in a day, just keep an eye on her and don't overtax or upset her.
Massage:
I have found that a VERY GENTLE uterine massage will induce contractions
when the doe is very close to beginning labor or is having weak and
ineffective contractions. I hold the doe as I would to palpate for pregnancy,
and with great care I massage her abdomen, feeling the kits within the uterus
without pressing upon them. Use great caution, as you could cause bruising
or hemorrhage to the uterus or injury to the kits if you massage too roughly. If
the doe struggles greatly or is grunting/groaning, she is telling you that it is
painful and you should stop immediately.
Herbal Remedies:
I include this only as another suggestion based on general rabbit knowledge.
I have never used any kind of herbal remedy so I can't speak for the
effectiveness or safety of these methods. One must be careful with herbal
medicine, remembering that many powerful drugs are derived from herbs and
home remedies can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
Some people have used parsley, raspberry leaves, and raspberry leaf tea to
supposedly bring on labor in rabbits. I don't see any harm in trying any of
these methods, as none of these plants will harm your rabbits as long as they
are given in small amounts. In fact, rabbits will love them and consider them a
great treat. Our rabbits get parsley and raspberry leaves, both, on occasion.
Oxytocin is a hormone that is
secreted by the pituitary, ovaries,
and testes. It is used as a
powerful drug to induce lactation,
uterine contraction that stimulates
labor, and establishment of
maternal behavior.
This is a drug that can ONLY be
obtained from a licensed
veterinarian, and should ONLY be
used by very experienced breeders
under the supervision of a veterinarian, ONLY in cases that clearly warrant it's
use, such as difficult birth, weak contractions, the doe is far overdue, or has a
retained placenta/has not passed afterbirth in a reasonable amount of time.
Used incorrectly, oxytocin can cause the doe to have contractions so strong
that the uterus could rupture, causing the doe to bleed out and die. The uterus
could also be expelled through the vaginal opening (prolapsed uterus). A
prolapsed uterus could possibly be replaced by a veterinarian, but infection,
hemorrhage and shock will be prime considerations and the doe should
probably never again be bred even if it is successful.
Most of us really should NOT be using oxytocin, although it seems to be more
and more common to see even novice breeders getting their hands on some
of the drug and "popping" their does to hurry up Mother Nature.
I've heard lots of reasons for using the drug, from not trusting the doe's nest
building abilities to wanting to deliver all the does in the barn at the same time
because the owner wants to go away for a weekend! One should plan one's
breeding schedule so that you will be available to watch and assist your
pregnant animals when they need you. Besides the inherent danger of the
drug, induced labor is stronger, faster, and HURTS!!! more than natural labor.
On top of that, we sometimes have found that does who received Oxy actually
had less maternal attachment to their litters.... Perhaps the natural birth
process is necessary for bonding to occur.
So, what other options do we have when our doe is at day 31 - 32 and shows
no intention of building a nest or starting labor anytime soon, it's getting late,
and we're getting a bit worried?
(Just one note first: Do not get the doe greatly upset or frightened or she may
reject or attack her kits when they finally are born. Here is where the practice
of daily handling and building trust with your animals truly pays off in keeping
them calm.)
First -- Check the Calendar!!!
Are you SURE you are correct on the breeding date? Don't undertake any
kind of intervention unless you can be absolutely positive that the doe is at full
gestation. Rabbits will deliver on day 28 to day 32 of their gestation. This is a
good argument for hand-breeding a doe (take the doe to the buck, witness
the breeding, and return the doe to her cage) rather than just leaving a doe in
a cage with a buck for a few days or a week.
Exercise.
Any reader who has given birth will remember having to get up and walk the
halls of the maternity ward during early labor. Why? It stimulates contractions.
Many the doe that we have brought in and followed around and around the
dining room table to get her moving both inside and out. Does it work? Yes,
it will sometimes bring on labor, but it's not instantaneous. Nature works on
her own time clock, and patience is the key. Encourage the doe to keep
moving along gently (not running madly), without getting her frightened or
upset. Remember that she is uncomfortable and needs to stop and lie down
and catch her breath occasionally. Give her about a half hour session, put her
up in her cage, and get her out again in an hour or so. You can give her a few
sessions in a day, just keep an eye on her and don't overtax or upset her.
Massage:
I have found that a VERY GENTLE uterine massage will induce contractions
when the doe is very close to beginning labor or is having weak and
ineffective contractions. I hold the doe as I would to palpate for pregnancy,
and with great care I massage her abdomen, feeling the kits within the uterus
without pressing upon them. Use great caution, as you could cause bruising
or hemorrhage to the uterus or injury to the kits if you massage too roughly. If
the doe struggles greatly or is grunting/groaning, she is telling you that it is
painful and you should stop immediately.
Herbal Remedies:
I include this only as another suggestion based on general rabbit knowledge.
I have never used any kind of herbal remedy so I can't speak for the
effectiveness or safety of these methods. One must be careful with herbal
medicine, remembering that many powerful drugs are derived from herbs and
home remedies can be dangerous if used incorrectly.
Some people have used parsley, raspberry leaves, and raspberry leaf tea to
supposedly bring on labor in rabbits. I don't see any harm in trying any of
these methods, as none of these plants will harm your rabbits as long as they
are given in small amounts. In fact, rabbits will love them and consider them a
great treat. Our rabbits get parsley and raspberry leaves, both, on occasion.
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