| How to Tattoo Pen Method By Teresa Wooden |
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The equipment is more expensive, but the
results are well worth it if you are dealing
with a larger number of animals. We have
found it to be faster, less traumatic, more
legible, more durable, and more flexible
as far as numbers and letters go. In fact,
we never use the clamp method any more.
At nearly every show, Anna gets compliments
from the judges for her clear and legible tattoos. Clamped tattoos usually fade, and
judges get pretty tired of shining flashlights behind the ears of dozens of rabbits in the
effort to tell what those numbers USED to say. Occasionally a pen tattoo will also fade…
but it is quickly and easily touched up.
When you are starting, it is a good idea to practice on some lesser quality animals before
you tackle your best show stock.
Types of Tattoo Pens
The two types I have seen are the “Bat Tat” pen and what I call the “tuna-can pen”,
which is what we have. I have never used a Bat-Tat, but it is the most common and I
have heard from both happy and unhappy customers. I was afraid my unit would be
awkward to hold at first, being a little top-heavy, but after the first few times of using it
I became accustomed to the balance and have never had a problem. Whichever type you
use, the process is the same.
1) Collect Your Materials
Have on hand your tattoo pen, tattoo ink (use a type that is thinner in consistency, as
the pen will not take up the pasty stuff), paper towels, rubbing alcohol, antibiotic
ointment or Preparation-H, and a towel if you need it to restrain the animal. Pour some
ink into a lid or something so that you
can dip the pen into it, and set it away from
you a bit so you won’t bump it over.
2) Prep the Ear
In the LEFT ear of the bunny, swab with a
little rubbing alcohol to sanitize the area
and remove dirt and oils. Rub dry.
3) Restrain the Bunny
I generally do not use anything special to
restrain the animal. I drop the hindquarters
between my knees and hold the bunny
securely. With my left hand (I’m right-
handed) I firmly press the tip of the ear
between my thumb and forefinger, while
pressing my second finger into the middle
backside of the ear. This turns the ear
inside-out so that I can get to the area and
also stretches the skin taught, which is
essential to getting a good tattoo. You must
keep that area stretched tightly over your
finger at all times. My left palm and little
finger wrap over the face and hold the head
securely. Keep your right hand (or writing hand)
free to move.
If I am doing very small bunnies (weanlings) I will wrap them in a towel to restrain them.
They are too small to control easily and their bones are so delicate that they could be
injured if they struggle.
4) Tattoo
Turn the pen on and dip the tip into the ink
well for a couple seconds. Dip just the tip
of the needle, not the whole pen cartridge,
or you’ll have ink dripping everywhere.
If you do get excess ink onto the cartridge,
just turn off the pen and wipe it off, then
continue.
Holding that ear stretched securely, begin to make your mark directly over your middle
finger. The pen won’t come through and tattoo your finger EXCEPT in the case of very
young, thin ears, when you might feel a prick and need to back off on the pressure you’re
exerting. Make steady strokes, going over the same stroke a few times each, and holding
the pen at a slight angle. If the ink seems to be fading, simple re-load it by dipping into
the ink well again.
I HAVE FOUND that the upper ends of the
rabbits’ ears are far more sensitive to pain,
and they jump more if I try to put a tattoo there.
Therefore I always place my tattoos lower
in the ear, on the thicker cartilage near the
base, just below the middle of the ear.
They almost always sit quietly if I use this
area, and begin to struggle more as I move
up into the upper ear. Work steadily but
quickly. Do not cover the rabbit’s nose or
squeeze its chest to the point that you are
shutting off the airway. If the rabbit struggles
too much for you hold, do wrap it in a towel
or use a tattoo wrap (a towel with Velcro straps).
When you have completed your tattoo, wipe a little antibiotic ointment or Preparation-H
over the marks.
5) Follow Up
Return the rabbit to its cage or carrier and give it some hay to calm down. Especially
with very young animals, keep an eye on them for a couple days to check for signs of
stress (diarrhea, not eating, etc.) Check the tattoo for a few days and watch for any
signs of infection (redness, swelling, etc) In a few days, you may find that the tattoo
sheds the top layer of skin and ink, and a clear and permanent tattoo should be left
imbedded in the skin.
results are well worth it if you are dealing
with a larger number of animals. We have
found it to be faster, less traumatic, more
legible, more durable, and more flexible
as far as numbers and letters go. In fact,
we never use the clamp method any more.
At nearly every show, Anna gets compliments
from the judges for her clear and legible tattoos. Clamped tattoos usually fade, and
judges get pretty tired of shining flashlights behind the ears of dozens of rabbits in the
effort to tell what those numbers USED to say. Occasionally a pen tattoo will also fade…
but it is quickly and easily touched up.
When you are starting, it is a good idea to practice on some lesser quality animals before
you tackle your best show stock.
Types of Tattoo Pens
The two types I have seen are the “Bat Tat” pen and what I call the “tuna-can pen”,
which is what we have. I have never used a Bat-Tat, but it is the most common and I
have heard from both happy and unhappy customers. I was afraid my unit would be
awkward to hold at first, being a little top-heavy, but after the first few times of using it
I became accustomed to the balance and have never had a problem. Whichever type you
use, the process is the same.
1) Collect Your Materials
Have on hand your tattoo pen, tattoo ink (use a type that is thinner in consistency, as
the pen will not take up the pasty stuff), paper towels, rubbing alcohol, antibiotic
ointment or Preparation-H, and a towel if you need it to restrain the animal. Pour some
ink into a lid or something so that you
can dip the pen into it, and set it away from
you a bit so you won’t bump it over.
2) Prep the Ear
In the LEFT ear of the bunny, swab with a
little rubbing alcohol to sanitize the area
and remove dirt and oils. Rub dry.
3) Restrain the Bunny
I generally do not use anything special to
restrain the animal. I drop the hindquarters
between my knees and hold the bunny
securely. With my left hand (I’m right-
handed) I firmly press the tip of the ear
between my thumb and forefinger, while
pressing my second finger into the middle
backside of the ear. This turns the ear
inside-out so that I can get to the area and
also stretches the skin taught, which is
essential to getting a good tattoo. You must
keep that area stretched tightly over your
finger at all times. My left palm and little
finger wrap over the face and hold the head
securely. Keep your right hand (or writing hand)
free to move.
If I am doing very small bunnies (weanlings) I will wrap them in a towel to restrain them.
They are too small to control easily and their bones are so delicate that they could be
injured if they struggle.
4) Tattoo
Turn the pen on and dip the tip into the ink
well for a couple seconds. Dip just the tip
of the needle, not the whole pen cartridge,
or you’ll have ink dripping everywhere.
If you do get excess ink onto the cartridge,
just turn off the pen and wipe it off, then
continue.
Holding that ear stretched securely, begin to make your mark directly over your middle
finger. The pen won’t come through and tattoo your finger EXCEPT in the case of very
young, thin ears, when you might feel a prick and need to back off on the pressure you’re
exerting. Make steady strokes, going over the same stroke a few times each, and holding
the pen at a slight angle. If the ink seems to be fading, simple re-load it by dipping into
the ink well again.
I HAVE FOUND that the upper ends of the
rabbits’ ears are far more sensitive to pain,
and they jump more if I try to put a tattoo there.
Therefore I always place my tattoos lower
in the ear, on the thicker cartilage near the
base, just below the middle of the ear.
They almost always sit quietly if I use this
area, and begin to struggle more as I move
up into the upper ear. Work steadily but
quickly. Do not cover the rabbit’s nose or
squeeze its chest to the point that you are
shutting off the airway. If the rabbit struggles
too much for you hold, do wrap it in a towel
or use a tattoo wrap (a towel with Velcro straps).
When you have completed your tattoo, wipe a little antibiotic ointment or Preparation-H
over the marks.
5) Follow Up
Return the rabbit to its cage or carrier and give it some hay to calm down. Especially
with very young animals, keep an eye on them for a couple days to check for signs of
stress (diarrhea, not eating, etc.) Check the tattoo for a few days and watch for any
signs of infection (redness, swelling, etc) In a few days, you may find that the tattoo
sheds the top layer of skin and ink, and a clear and permanent tattoo should be left
imbedded in the skin.
