| Is your Hay Okay? By Teresa Wooden |
Hay is an important part of the rabbit's diet. It provides essential fiber to keep the
digestive tract healthy and mobile, and provides some nutrition as well. For wool
breeds, like Jersey Woolies and Angoras, hay is a must and should be fed weekly
(even daily) in small amounts in addition to the pelleted feed ration.
However, if the hay carries mold, dust, harmful bacteria or infectious protozoal
elements, it could spell disaster for your herd. Hay that is too high in protein or
mineral content can cause diarrhea and also "red urine", which is harmless but can
be alarming if you aren't expecting it.
Here are some things to consider when buying hay to help you be sure that you are
getting the best product for your rabbits' welfare.
What Type of Hay:
The best hay to feed rabbits is grass hay. That will be timothy, orchard grass,
brome, and oat hay, usually. These hays are best for providing high fiber content
and low levels of protein and fat. Alfalfa is a legume hay and is very high in
nutrients, protein, and minerals, and can be too much for the rabbit's digestive
system to handle when it is already getting sufficient nutrients from a diet based
on pelleted feed. Some of the minerals (calcium, I believe) in alfalfa hay can turn
the rabbit's urine red.
You can buy hay from pet stores, from hay companies mail order, and from area
farmers. Hay from the farmer down the road may cost you about $3.75 for 50
pounds. Hay from the pet store will cost you $4--5 for a tiny bag, maybe a pound.
You do the math. Hay from the mail-order hay companies you can find on-line is
very high in quality and very attractive, and costs almost $30 per 50 pounds, to
which you must add shipping. At that price it really hurts to see your rabbit pee on
it and drop most of it through the cage floor, but some people feel safer going that
route quality-wise. Here is a link to Oxbow Hay Company, which seems to have the
best quality product I've seen.
Here we feed our own hay that comes from our field. It is mostly timothy, some
orchard grass, and a little alfalfa mixed in. It provides a very good source of fiber
and nutrients, and the rabbits love it.
Determining Hay Quality:
What do you look for when buying hay in the store or from a farmer? If you're
buying directly from a farmer, one thing to ask is: what cutting was this hay?
Farmers usually get about three cuttings, or harvests, off a field in one season. The
"first cutting" of the year tends to be higher in weed content. The "second
cutting" is usually the choicest hay, lower in weeds and high in nutrient value. The
"third cutting" can sometimes be overly mature, drier, and lower in nutrient value.
Hay maturity can be determined by looking to see how developed the seed heads
or blossoms are. The more open and mature the seed head, the lower in nutrient
value. Overly mature hay will be "stemmy", with fewer leaves in proportion to the
number of stems. Stems don't carry as much food value.
Some of the weeds that may be hiding in the hay can be toxic to rabbits. Contact
your local extension agency if you'd like to know more about possible toxic weeds
in your area of the country. Basically anything that will be toxic to horses will be
toxic to rabbits... and will take less volume to do the damage. Always look over the
hay as you give it out to your bunnies, and remove any weed you can't identify.
Good hay smells yummy... :) It should smell sweet, even minty sometimes... but
never smell moldy, sour, or rotten. The bale should be dry, never damp inside.
Good hay is green. While the outside of the bale may turn brown or fade, the
inside should open up to reveal nice, bright to pale green hay. Hay that is brown all
the way through is too old, or too moldy, or has been exposed to the elements.
Problems with Hay:
Mold:
Moldy hay tends to stick together instead of falling apart into "flakes" or "beats".
You may see a white powdery substance growing on the stems. It will smell moldy,
not sweet. You may find blackened areas on one end or side that was exposed to
moisture in storage and grew mold. Moldy hay can make your rabbits very sick, so
be observant.
Toxic Weeds:
As I said before, examine the hay as you feed it. Try to get second cutting hay.
There are some toxic weeds that could kill your rabbits in a very short amount of
time, so be vigilant about giving them clean hay.
Chemical Sprays:
Ask what sprays the farmer has used and how recently. Chances are that any
pesticides or other sprays have long since passed through the plant's system, but it
doesn't hurt to be sure. Hay that was cut by a roadside or next to another crop
may have been covered with chemical drift when herbicide or pesticide was
sprayed next to it.
Rodents and other Varmints:
Hay that is stored where rodents, and particularly raccoons, have access to it in any
great numbers carries the risk of bringing parasites and protozoal infections to your
herd. The protozoal infection E.Cuniculi, which is believed to cause nervous
system damage (often symptomized by "wry neck" or head tilt) is thought possibly
connected to the droppings of raccoons on stored hay (this is information being
examined in equine (horse) medicine).
Storing Hay Properly:
Okay, so now you have a 50-pound bale of hay... what do you do with it? Stored
properly, it will last you a long time without losing much in quality.
Be sure to keep the hay dry. Don't let moisture condense on it. Don't leave it out
exposed to the elements. Rain or moisture will cause mold. Sunlight can fade it
and leach the nutrients from it. You could store the hay in a garbage can. If you
put it in a large plastic garbage sack, be sure to keep it covered loosely so that it
can breathe. Basically keep it in a dry, dark, cool place and you won't have any
problems.
digestive tract healthy and mobile, and provides some nutrition as well. For wool
breeds, like Jersey Woolies and Angoras, hay is a must and should be fed weekly
(even daily) in small amounts in addition to the pelleted feed ration.
However, if the hay carries mold, dust, harmful bacteria or infectious protozoal
elements, it could spell disaster for your herd. Hay that is too high in protein or
mineral content can cause diarrhea and also "red urine", which is harmless but can
be alarming if you aren't expecting it.
Here are some things to consider when buying hay to help you be sure that you are
getting the best product for your rabbits' welfare.
What Type of Hay:
The best hay to feed rabbits is grass hay. That will be timothy, orchard grass,
brome, and oat hay, usually. These hays are best for providing high fiber content
and low levels of protein and fat. Alfalfa is a legume hay and is very high in
nutrients, protein, and minerals, and can be too much for the rabbit's digestive
system to handle when it is already getting sufficient nutrients from a diet based
on pelleted feed. Some of the minerals (calcium, I believe) in alfalfa hay can turn
the rabbit's urine red.
You can buy hay from pet stores, from hay companies mail order, and from area
farmers. Hay from the farmer down the road may cost you about $3.75 for 50
pounds. Hay from the pet store will cost you $4--5 for a tiny bag, maybe a pound.
You do the math. Hay from the mail-order hay companies you can find on-line is
very high in quality and very attractive, and costs almost $30 per 50 pounds, to
which you must add shipping. At that price it really hurts to see your rabbit pee on
it and drop most of it through the cage floor, but some people feel safer going that
route quality-wise. Here is a link to Oxbow Hay Company, which seems to have the
best quality product I've seen.
Here we feed our own hay that comes from our field. It is mostly timothy, some
orchard grass, and a little alfalfa mixed in. It provides a very good source of fiber
and nutrients, and the rabbits love it.
Determining Hay Quality:
What do you look for when buying hay in the store or from a farmer? If you're
buying directly from a farmer, one thing to ask is: what cutting was this hay?
Farmers usually get about three cuttings, or harvests, off a field in one season. The
"first cutting" of the year tends to be higher in weed content. The "second
cutting" is usually the choicest hay, lower in weeds and high in nutrient value. The
"third cutting" can sometimes be overly mature, drier, and lower in nutrient value.
Hay maturity can be determined by looking to see how developed the seed heads
or blossoms are. The more open and mature the seed head, the lower in nutrient
value. Overly mature hay will be "stemmy", with fewer leaves in proportion to the
number of stems. Stems don't carry as much food value.
Some of the weeds that may be hiding in the hay can be toxic to rabbits. Contact
your local extension agency if you'd like to know more about possible toxic weeds
in your area of the country. Basically anything that will be toxic to horses will be
toxic to rabbits... and will take less volume to do the damage. Always look over the
hay as you give it out to your bunnies, and remove any weed you can't identify.
Good hay smells yummy... :) It should smell sweet, even minty sometimes... but
never smell moldy, sour, or rotten. The bale should be dry, never damp inside.
Good hay is green. While the outside of the bale may turn brown or fade, the
inside should open up to reveal nice, bright to pale green hay. Hay that is brown all
the way through is too old, or too moldy, or has been exposed to the elements.
Problems with Hay:
Mold:
Moldy hay tends to stick together instead of falling apart into "flakes" or "beats".
You may see a white powdery substance growing on the stems. It will smell moldy,
not sweet. You may find blackened areas on one end or side that was exposed to
moisture in storage and grew mold. Moldy hay can make your rabbits very sick, so
be observant.
Toxic Weeds:
As I said before, examine the hay as you feed it. Try to get second cutting hay.
There are some toxic weeds that could kill your rabbits in a very short amount of
time, so be vigilant about giving them clean hay.
Chemical Sprays:
Ask what sprays the farmer has used and how recently. Chances are that any
pesticides or other sprays have long since passed through the plant's system, but it
doesn't hurt to be sure. Hay that was cut by a roadside or next to another crop
may have been covered with chemical drift when herbicide or pesticide was
sprayed next to it.
Rodents and other Varmints:
Hay that is stored where rodents, and particularly raccoons, have access to it in any
great numbers carries the risk of bringing parasites and protozoal infections to your
herd. The protozoal infection E.Cuniculi, which is believed to cause nervous
system damage (often symptomized by "wry neck" or head tilt) is thought possibly
connected to the droppings of raccoons on stored hay (this is information being
examined in equine (horse) medicine).
Storing Hay Properly:
Okay, so now you have a 50-pound bale of hay... what do you do with it? Stored
properly, it will last you a long time without losing much in quality.
Be sure to keep the hay dry. Don't let moisture condense on it. Don't leave it out
exposed to the elements. Rain or moisture will cause mold. Sunlight can fade it
and leach the nutrients from it. You could store the hay in a garbage can. If you
put it in a large plastic garbage sack, be sure to keep it covered loosely so that it
can breathe. Basically keep it in a dry, dark, cool place and you won't have any
problems.
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