| Dealing with Biter By Teresa Wooden |
Although we rarely have a Jersey Wooly that becomes a biter (they are
generally docile), it has happened a few times. In every case it was a buck
that became aggressive to the point of biting. Although some territorial
does have grunted and lunged as if they might bite, it was all an act...
"grunt and lunge" was always followed by "retreat and hide".
Biters, on the other hand, grunt/lunge/and nail your hand, often so swiftly
that you don't see it coming. The bite is usually quick and sometimes
followed by "retreat and hide", but more often by a defensive stance with
tail up and direct eye contact that just dares you to try it again.
The surprising thing is that each of these bucks were sweet and docile as
youngsters, and then turned into raging maniacs without warning or
provocation. So, what gives?
The Problem with Teenagers:
Just like their human counterparts, some (not all) rabbits go through a
hormonal storm at around the age of four to six months. Sweet Fluffy will
hang out of the cage door and fall into your arms today, and next week will
leap out of the cage with teeth bared, looking for a good fight. This can
really hurt our feelings since we love Fluffy and don't know why he doesn't
like us anymore! After one or two good nips we stop being hurt and start
getting mad... "Okay, you wanna' piece of me?! C'mon!"
Just like dealing with human teenagers, it's best to keep a cool head and
simply establish boundaries (see "Establish Dominance", below). If you can
ride this out for a couple months, you will probably see the amazing
transformation into a decent, level-headed adult. However, if you over- or
under-react, you may set up a system of behavior that will be difficult to
change later on.
"Mine, Mine, Mine!!!":
"This is my space and you can't come in!" This is the motivation most
commonly seen in does but also present in bucks. Simply put, they have a
very small space and when you present your hand into that space it seems
even smaller, and that is threatening. In addition, if you are very loud or
move very abruptly, this could also be seen as threatening and provoke a
defensive attack.
"You Smell Funny!":
You have just been examining or handling a rabbit, and now you place your
hand into the cage with another rabbit of the same sex. The "Scents"
overwhelm the "Senses" and your hand must be put in it's place! "How dare
you come in here smelling like that!" This is most common in very active
bucks -- in fact we've never seen this behavior in a doe.
"I'll Get You Before You Get Me!":
If the rabbit is very afraid of being hurt or handled (have you been reacting
over-aggressively?) it may decide to take you out before an anticipated
attack upon itself. We have seen this in a couple animals surrendered for
adoption, and have wondered just what on Earth they have experienced to
make them so mistrusting and frightened. This situation will take time and
patience to improve, as there is some type of trauma to overcome.
Mother Bear:
Very maternal does may become biters in defense of their babies... how
could you possibly blame them! They are doing what nature tells them to
do to protect their young. Admirable, even though annoying. The good
news is that this type of biter is definitely linked to a period of time -- she
has a litter -- and will be unlikely to bite once the litter is weaned and gone.
Genetics:
There are certain breeds that are known for aggression and biting. Although
beautiful and challenging to raise, they are not for beginners or for youth.
Also, with these breeds you must acknowledge that the risk comes with the
territory, so to speak, and must not hold their aggression against them. It is
bred into them, they can't help it.
In addition, there are certain strains, varieties, and bloodlines within each
breed that may be know for it's aggressive tendencies. In Jersey Woolies,
the Blue-Eyed-Whites used to be known for nasty temperaments. Although
all of Anna's BEW's have been docile and sweet, we have been witness to
some real psycho BEW's that came out of other lines. Rest assured that
most of these bad-tempered animals have been bred out of the breed's lines
by now, and it is rare to come across one that is truly vicious.
Okay, now we know some reasons WHY rabbits may become "biters"... so
what can we do about it?
Establish Dominance:
This will usually work to keep an adolescent
buck in his place so that you can at least fill the feed and
water bowls:
When he runs up to the front of the cage to challenge
you, very quickly bring your hand down on top of him and
push his shoulders to the floor, holding him there for five
to ten seconds. (This is a calculated move -- be fast
and firm or lose a finger, your choice.) He will struggle.
Hold him down firmly, but do not impede his breathing or risk injuring his
spine. 98% of the time, when you release him he will run to the back of
the cage in disbelief and think about it. You may have to repeat this a few
times before he gets the idea that you are bigger than him and really should
be left alone.
DO NOT hit him, throw things at him, or use another object to push him
away. This will only irritate and frighten him and could lead to permanent
behavior problems.
DO NOT play the weaker member of this dominance game, for instance
darting in to grab a bowl and darting back out, obviously intimidated. Your
little monster will actually get quite a kick out of this power struggle and
may turn into a tyrant, sitting around all day just waiting for you to come
play "the game".
Limit Your Own Threatening Behavior:
Talk to your rabbits in a calm, kind tone of voice. Do not be loud, don't
move abruptly, and always pick them up out of their cages with gentleness
and respect. Stay calm and be predictable... they will always know exactly
what to expect from you.
We found that Anna's Brittania Petites (a very aggressive breed) would bite
if we introduced our hands into the cages high above their heads, but not if
we came in low at the bottom of the doors. Evidently the hovering hand is
a threat.
Neutering:
Sometimes a buck may be so hormonal that you may need to consider
neutering in order to affect a change in his behavior. This is rare, but may
be your last resort if all other tactics have failed and the animal is over 8 to
10 months of age. At that age he should be well through his "terrible
teens". Just be aware that once a rabbit is neutered, it can no longer be
shown as an exhibition animal. It will be a pet, only.
Cull the Animal:
If all else fails, you may have no choice but to surrender the animal to an
experienced breeder who will use it only for production and knows how to
deal with the behavior. If you purchased the animal from a reputable
breeder, they will likely take it back and replace it for you with a more
docile animal.
DO NOT give such an animal away as a pet to a child or adult who has no
idea what to do with it.
Extremely vicious animals that are not helped even by neutering, should be
put down humanely by your vet.
generally docile), it has happened a few times. In every case it was a buck
that became aggressive to the point of biting. Although some territorial
does have grunted and lunged as if they might bite, it was all an act...
"grunt and lunge" was always followed by "retreat and hide".
Biters, on the other hand, grunt/lunge/and nail your hand, often so swiftly
that you don't see it coming. The bite is usually quick and sometimes
followed by "retreat and hide", but more often by a defensive stance with
tail up and direct eye contact that just dares you to try it again.
The surprising thing is that each of these bucks were sweet and docile as
youngsters, and then turned into raging maniacs without warning or
provocation. So, what gives?
The Problem with Teenagers:
Just like their human counterparts, some (not all) rabbits go through a
hormonal storm at around the age of four to six months. Sweet Fluffy will
hang out of the cage door and fall into your arms today, and next week will
leap out of the cage with teeth bared, looking for a good fight. This can
really hurt our feelings since we love Fluffy and don't know why he doesn't
like us anymore! After one or two good nips we stop being hurt and start
getting mad... "Okay, you wanna' piece of me?! C'mon!"
Just like dealing with human teenagers, it's best to keep a cool head and
simply establish boundaries (see "Establish Dominance", below). If you can
ride this out for a couple months, you will probably see the amazing
transformation into a decent, level-headed adult. However, if you over- or
under-react, you may set up a system of behavior that will be difficult to
change later on.
"Mine, Mine, Mine!!!":
"This is my space and you can't come in!" This is the motivation most
commonly seen in does but also present in bucks. Simply put, they have a
very small space and when you present your hand into that space it seems
even smaller, and that is threatening. In addition, if you are very loud or
move very abruptly, this could also be seen as threatening and provoke a
defensive attack.
"You Smell Funny!":
You have just been examining or handling a rabbit, and now you place your
hand into the cage with another rabbit of the same sex. The "Scents"
overwhelm the "Senses" and your hand must be put in it's place! "How dare
you come in here smelling like that!" This is most common in very active
bucks -- in fact we've never seen this behavior in a doe.
"I'll Get You Before You Get Me!":
If the rabbit is very afraid of being hurt or handled (have you been reacting
over-aggressively?) it may decide to take you out before an anticipated
attack upon itself. We have seen this in a couple animals surrendered for
adoption, and have wondered just what on Earth they have experienced to
make them so mistrusting and frightened. This situation will take time and
patience to improve, as there is some type of trauma to overcome.
Mother Bear:
Very maternal does may become biters in defense of their babies... how
could you possibly blame them! They are doing what nature tells them to
do to protect their young. Admirable, even though annoying. The good
news is that this type of biter is definitely linked to a period of time -- she
has a litter -- and will be unlikely to bite once the litter is weaned and gone.
Genetics:
There are certain breeds that are known for aggression and biting. Although
beautiful and challenging to raise, they are not for beginners or for youth.
Also, with these breeds you must acknowledge that the risk comes with the
territory, so to speak, and must not hold their aggression against them. It is
bred into them, they can't help it.
In addition, there are certain strains, varieties, and bloodlines within each
breed that may be know for it's aggressive tendencies. In Jersey Woolies,
the Blue-Eyed-Whites used to be known for nasty temperaments. Although
all of Anna's BEW's have been docile and sweet, we have been witness to
some real psycho BEW's that came out of other lines. Rest assured that
most of these bad-tempered animals have been bred out of the breed's lines
by now, and it is rare to come across one that is truly vicious.
Okay, now we know some reasons WHY rabbits may become "biters"... so
what can we do about it?
Establish Dominance:
This will usually work to keep an adolescent
buck in his place so that you can at least fill the feed and
water bowls:
When he runs up to the front of the cage to challenge
you, very quickly bring your hand down on top of him and
push his shoulders to the floor, holding him there for five
to ten seconds. (This is a calculated move -- be fast
and firm or lose a finger, your choice.) He will struggle.
Hold him down firmly, but do not impede his breathing or risk injuring his
spine. 98% of the time, when you release him he will run to the back of
the cage in disbelief and think about it. You may have to repeat this a few
times before he gets the idea that you are bigger than him and really should
be left alone.
DO NOT hit him, throw things at him, or use another object to push him
away. This will only irritate and frighten him and could lead to permanent
behavior problems.
DO NOT play the weaker member of this dominance game, for instance
darting in to grab a bowl and darting back out, obviously intimidated. Your
little monster will actually get quite a kick out of this power struggle and
may turn into a tyrant, sitting around all day just waiting for you to come
play "the game".
Limit Your Own Threatening Behavior:
Talk to your rabbits in a calm, kind tone of voice. Do not be loud, don't
move abruptly, and always pick them up out of their cages with gentleness
and respect. Stay calm and be predictable... they will always know exactly
what to expect from you.
We found that Anna's Brittania Petites (a very aggressive breed) would bite
if we introduced our hands into the cages high above their heads, but not if
we came in low at the bottom of the doors. Evidently the hovering hand is
a threat.
Neutering:
Sometimes a buck may be so hormonal that you may need to consider
neutering in order to affect a change in his behavior. This is rare, but may
be your last resort if all other tactics have failed and the animal is over 8 to
10 months of age. At that age he should be well through his "terrible
teens". Just be aware that once a rabbit is neutered, it can no longer be
shown as an exhibition animal. It will be a pet, only.
Cull the Animal:
If all else fails, you may have no choice but to surrender the animal to an
experienced breeder who will use it only for production and knows how to
deal with the behavior. If you purchased the animal from a reputable
breeder, they will likely take it back and replace it for you with a more
docile animal.
DO NOT give such an animal away as a pet to a child or adult who has no
idea what to do with it.
Extremely vicious animals that are not helped even by neutering, should be
put down humanely by your vet.
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