| Alternatives to Oxytocin By Teresa Wooden |
What Is Oxytocin?
Oxytocin is a hormone that is
secreted by the pituitary, ovaries,
and testes. It is used as a
powerful drug to induce lactation,
uterine contraction that stimulates
labor, and establishment of
maternal behavior.
This is a drug that can ONLY be
obtained from a licensed
veterinarian, and should ONLY be
used by very experienced breeders
under the supervision of a veterinarian, ONLY in cases that clearly warrant it's use, such
as difficult birth, weak contractions, the doe is far overdue, or has a retained
placenta/has not passed afterbirth in a reasonable amount of time.
Used incorrectly, oxytocin can cause the doe to have contractions so strong that the
uterus could rupture, causing the doe to bleed out and die. The uterus could also be
expelled through the vaginal opening (prolapsed uterus). A prolapsed uterus could
possibly be replaced by a veterinarian, but infection, hemorrhage and shock will be prime
considerations and the doe should probably never again be bred even if it is successful.
Most of us really should NOT be using oxytocin, although it seems to be more and more
common to see even novice breeders getting their hands on some of the drug and
"popping" their does to hurry up Mother Nature.
I've heard lots of reasons for using the drug, from not trusting the doe's nest building
abilities to wanting to deliver all the does in the barn at the same time because the
owner wants to go away for a weekend! One should plan one's breeding schedule so that
you will be available to watch and assist your pregnant animals when they need you.
Besides the inherent danger of the drug, induced labor is stronger, faster, and HURTS!!!
more than natural labor. On top of that, we sometimes have found that does who
received Oxy actually had less maternal attachment to their litters.... Perhaps the natural
birth process is necessary for bonding to occur.
So, what other options do we have when our doe is at day 31 - 32 and shows no
intention of building a nest or starting labor anytime soon, it's getting late, and we're
getting a bit worried?
(Just one note first: Do not get the doe greatly upset or frightened or she may reject or
attack her kits when they finally are born. Here is where the practice of daily handling
and building trust with your animals truly pays off in keeping them calm.)
First -- Check the Calendar!!!
Are you SURE you are correct on the breeding date? Don't undertake any kind of
intervention unless you can be absolutely positive that the doe is at full gestation.
Rabbits will deliver on day 28 to day 32 of their gestation. This is a good argument for
hand-breeding a doe (take the doe to the buck, witness the breeding, and return the
doe to her cage) rather than just leaving a doe in a cage with a buck for a few days or a
week.
Exercise.
Any reader who has given birth will remember having to get up and walk the halls of the
maternity ward during early labor. Why? It stimulates contractions. Many the doe that
we have brought in and followed around and around the dining room table to get her
moving both inside and out. Does it work? Yes, it will sometimes bring on labor, but it's
not instantaneous. Nature works on her own time clock, and patience is the key.
Encourage the doe to keep moving along gently (not running madly), without getting her
frightened or upset. Remember that she is uncomfortable and needs to stop and lie
down and catch her breath occasionally. Give her about a half hour session, put her up in
her cage, and get her out again in an hour or so. You can give her a few sessions in a
day, just keep an eye on her and don't overtax or upset her.
Massage:
I have found that a VERY GENTLE uterine massage will induce contractions when the doe
is very close to beginning labor or is having weak and ineffective contractions. I hold the
doe as I would to palpate for pregnancy, and with great care I massage her abdomen,
feeling the kits within the uterus without pressing upon them. Use great caution, as
you could cause bruising or hemorrhage to the uterus or injury to the kits if you massage
too roughly. If the doe struggles greatly or is grunting/groaning, she is telling you that it
is painful and you should stop immediately.
Herbal Remedies:
I include this only as another suggestion based on general rabbit knowledge. I have
never used any kind of herbal remedy so I can't speak for the effectiveness or safety of
these methods. One must be careful with herbal medicine, remembering that many
powerful drugs are derived from herbs and home remedies can be dangerous if used
incorrectly.
Some people have used parsley, raspberry leaves, and raspberry leaf tea to supposedly
bring on labor in rabbits. I don't see any harm in trying any of these methods, as none of
these plants will harm your rabbits as long as they are given in small amounts. In fact,
rabbits will love them and consider them a great treat. Our rabbits get parsley and
raspberry leaves, both, on occasion.
Oxytocin is a hormone that is
secreted by the pituitary, ovaries,
and testes. It is used as a
powerful drug to induce lactation,
uterine contraction that stimulates
labor, and establishment of
maternal behavior.
This is a drug that can ONLY be
obtained from a licensed
veterinarian, and should ONLY be
used by very experienced breeders
under the supervision of a veterinarian, ONLY in cases that clearly warrant it's use, such
as difficult birth, weak contractions, the doe is far overdue, or has a retained
placenta/has not passed afterbirth in a reasonable amount of time.
Used incorrectly, oxytocin can cause the doe to have contractions so strong that the
uterus could rupture, causing the doe to bleed out and die. The uterus could also be
expelled through the vaginal opening (prolapsed uterus). A prolapsed uterus could
possibly be replaced by a veterinarian, but infection, hemorrhage and shock will be prime
considerations and the doe should probably never again be bred even if it is successful.
Most of us really should NOT be using oxytocin, although it seems to be more and more
common to see even novice breeders getting their hands on some of the drug and
"popping" their does to hurry up Mother Nature.
I've heard lots of reasons for using the drug, from not trusting the doe's nest building
abilities to wanting to deliver all the does in the barn at the same time because the
owner wants to go away for a weekend! One should plan one's breeding schedule so that
you will be available to watch and assist your pregnant animals when they need you.
Besides the inherent danger of the drug, induced labor is stronger, faster, and HURTS!!!
more than natural labor. On top of that, we sometimes have found that does who
received Oxy actually had less maternal attachment to their litters.... Perhaps the natural
birth process is necessary for bonding to occur.
So, what other options do we have when our doe is at day 31 - 32 and shows no
intention of building a nest or starting labor anytime soon, it's getting late, and we're
getting a bit worried?
(Just one note first: Do not get the doe greatly upset or frightened or she may reject or
attack her kits when they finally are born. Here is where the practice of daily handling
and building trust with your animals truly pays off in keeping them calm.)
First -- Check the Calendar!!!
Are you SURE you are correct on the breeding date? Don't undertake any kind of
intervention unless you can be absolutely positive that the doe is at full gestation.
Rabbits will deliver on day 28 to day 32 of their gestation. This is a good argument for
hand-breeding a doe (take the doe to the buck, witness the breeding, and return the
doe to her cage) rather than just leaving a doe in a cage with a buck for a few days or a
week.
Exercise.
Any reader who has given birth will remember having to get up and walk the halls of the
maternity ward during early labor. Why? It stimulates contractions. Many the doe that
we have brought in and followed around and around the dining room table to get her
moving both inside and out. Does it work? Yes, it will sometimes bring on labor, but it's
not instantaneous. Nature works on her own time clock, and patience is the key.
Encourage the doe to keep moving along gently (not running madly), without getting her
frightened or upset. Remember that she is uncomfortable and needs to stop and lie
down and catch her breath occasionally. Give her about a half hour session, put her up in
her cage, and get her out again in an hour or so. You can give her a few sessions in a
day, just keep an eye on her and don't overtax or upset her.
Massage:
I have found that a VERY GENTLE uterine massage will induce contractions when the doe
is very close to beginning labor or is having weak and ineffective contractions. I hold the
doe as I would to palpate for pregnancy, and with great care I massage her abdomen,
feeling the kits within the uterus without pressing upon them. Use great caution, as
you could cause bruising or hemorrhage to the uterus or injury to the kits if you massage
too roughly. If the doe struggles greatly or is grunting/groaning, she is telling you that it
is painful and you should stop immediately.
Herbal Remedies:
I include this only as another suggestion based on general rabbit knowledge. I have
never used any kind of herbal remedy so I can't speak for the effectiveness or safety of
these methods. One must be careful with herbal medicine, remembering that many
powerful drugs are derived from herbs and home remedies can be dangerous if used
incorrectly.
Some people have used parsley, raspberry leaves, and raspberry leaf tea to supposedly
bring on labor in rabbits. I don't see any harm in trying any of these methods, as none of
these plants will harm your rabbits as long as they are given in small amounts. In fact,
rabbits will love them and consider them a great treat. Our rabbits get parsley and
raspberry leaves, both, on occasion.
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